Coverstocks and How They Perform!

With all the bowling balls that are listed on the market, how do you choose what may work for you!? I will try to break down some of the simple aspects to look for in just the coverstock that will help your game out. First, let me mention that Five Main coverstocks are used in today's game. Plastic, Urethane, Pearl, Hybrid, and Solid are the common names for these coverstocks. Each section will be broken down to how each coverstock will perform for bowlers.

Plastic Coverstock
Plastic is the most simple coverstock to break down. This is found commonly on your spare balls. Plastic is designed to go straight to help with your spare game. It takes the lane out of play so you may go from the foul line directly to the pin(s) without the interference of the ball hooking on you.

Urethane Coverstock
Urethane is the next step up from the Plastic Coverstock. Urethane will hook a few more boards than Plastic. Also, Urethane will react relatively early when rolling it down lane. Most bowlers will migrate to Urethane when bowling on a short pattern or when the lanes are extremely Over/Under. Short patterns(35' or less) are either the Cheetah or Wolf to give you an idea. Never heard of Over/Under Reaction? Well that is mentioned when your ball over hooks on one shot and then the very next shot under hooks. Thus giving you Over/Under Reaction. Anytime you see this while bowling, either a line change or ball changing to Urethane is needed quickly. Some bowlers will use Urethane as a spare ball since the hook is still minimal.

*The bowling world uses Three main Reactive coverstocks: Pearl Reactive, HyBrid Reactive, and Solid Reactive. I will break down the relevance in each coverstock and how they will perform.*

Pearl Coverstock
Pearl coverstocks will go the longest of the 3 Reactive coverstocks. Most of the time bowlers will migrate to a Pearl coverstock in the later games of tournament qualifying. So after a few games have been bowled, the shot begins to break down, that is when switching to a Pearl coverstock could benefit you. You may find that using a Pearl Coverstock on a house shot will help increase your carry as well. Again, more length and a sharper response on the back end is what you will find out of a Pearl Coverstock. Bowlers with slower speeds may lean towards Pearl Coverstock to help get natural length before the ball reacts.

HyBrid Coverstock
HyBrid Coverstocks will react slightly earlier than a Pearl coverstock but yet still go longer than a Solid Coverstock. Hybrid Coverstock are considered your happy-medium ball. They are used on a variety of conditions. One of the best selling balls in our game today, Storm Hy-Road, has a HyBrid Coverstock. Most of the time you could start with a HyBrid to feel out the pattern you are bowling on. Then steer to a better direction if the HyBrid is not working for you. Hybrid Coverstock are pretty versatile for all types of bowlers.

Solid Coverstock
Solid Coverstocks will react the earliest out of the Three Reactive Coverstocks. Solid Coverstocks are used primarily on fresh to heavy volume patterns. To put it in perspective, Solid Coverstocks have the sharpest teeth to cut through the oil. The one down fall with Solid Coverstocks, since they are designed for high oiled patterns, they absorb the most oil at the quickest rate. This requires more maintenance than your Pearl and HyBrid Coverstock. Bowers with higher speeds may lean towards Solid Coverstocks to help with reaction.
To break it down one last time for you. In order from Strongest to Weakest Coverstocks are: Solid, HyBrid, Pearl, Urethane, and then Plastic. This is not always true but more often than not, this is the order they go. When heading to go bowl tournaments, make sure your arsenal is covered from top to bottom. It is nice to have a nice mixture of each coverstock to match up to what you may be bowling on. So instead of buying the new High Performance ball each time one comes out, look at rounding out your arsenal to help improve your scores. Also, there will be times the Pearl Coverstock may out hook a Solid coverstock. Trial and error is the best thing about the game of bowling. Some things may work one day and yet fail the next day. Keep an open mind out there! Remember to always Practice Practice Practice!

Understanding Bowling Lane Conditioning

Understanding Bowling Lane Conditioning

 The Blocked Lane

Now that I have gone through the bowling ball motion, lengthwise taper, and crosswise blend, I will try to explain how this got turned into the type of scoring environment we have today. At least the start of it as I've see it happen over the last 31 years. 

The blended condition is what we are suppose to be bowling on today, but the lane conditioning got changed from bug sprayers and burlap pads with a rotary buffing machine to the newer lane oiling machines. These new machines enabled the lane men to shim their machines for the crosswise blend and lengthwise taper very easily compared to the previous methods. 

They also learned very soon that they could doctor their machines to make the blended lane pattern into a blocked lane condition. This was done very easily with only a few modifications in the shims. The bowlers liked the scoring on the new walled up lane condition and got so used to it that the bowling centers have never been able to change back even to this day.

So now they make special leagues for these blended patterns that we are suppose to bowl on all the time. The Sport bowling league and the national patterns are examples of blended lane conditions

Here are some terms used in bowling lane conditioning.
1. Crosswise Blend
2. Lengthwise Taper
3. Heads
4. Midlane
5. Backend
6. Pin deck
7. Transition
8. Track Area
9. Blocked lane
10. Walled Up
11. Wall of China
12. The House Shot

(Note:These are just some Basic Terms).



A Blocked Bowling Lane(Note: a blend was easy to turn into a block just by only put the shims in the middle of the oiling machines oil tank.)

Coverstocks and How They Perform!

With all the bowling balls that are listed on the market, how do you choose what may work for you!? I will try to break down some of the simple aspects to look for in just the coverstock that will help your game out. First, let me mention that Five Main coverstocks are used in today's game. Plastic, Urethane, Pearl, Hybrid, and Solid are the common names for these coverstocks. Each section will be broken down to how each coverstock will perform for bowlers.

Plastic Coverstock

Plastic is the most simple coverstock to break down. This is found commonly on your spare balls. Plastic is designed to go straight to help with your spare game. It takes the lane out of play so you may go from the foul line directly to the pin(s) without the interference of the ball hooking on you.

Urethane Coverstock

Urethane is the next step up from the Plastic Coverstock. Urethane will hook a few more boards than Plastic. Also, Urethane will react relatively early when rolling it down lane. Most bowlers will migrate to Urethane when bowling on a short pattern or when the lanes are extremely Over/Under. Short patterns(35' or less) are either the Cheetah or Wolf to give you an idea. Never heard of Over/Under Reaction? Well that is mentioned when your ball over hooks on one shot and then the very next shot under hooks. Thus giving you Over/Under Reaction. Anytime you see this while bowling, either a line change or ball changing to Urethane is needed quickly. Some bowlers will use Urethane as a spare ball since the hook is still minimal.
*The bowling world uses Three main Reactive coverstocks: Pearl Reactive, HyBrid Reactive, and Solid Reactive. I will break down the relevance in each coverstock and how they will perform.*

Pearl Coverstock

Pearl coverstocks will go the longest of the 3 Reactive coverstocks. Most of the time bowlers will migrate to a Pearl coverstock in the later games of tournament qualifying. So after a few games have been bowled, the shot begins to break down, that is when switching to a Pearl coverstock could benefit you. You may find that using a Pearl Coverstock on a house shot will help increase your carry as well. Again, more length and a sharper response on the back end is what you will find out of a Pearl Coverstock. Bowlers with slower speeds may lean towards Pearl Coverstock to help get natural length before the ball reacts.

HyBrid Coverstock


HyBrid Coverstocks will react slightly earlier than a Pearl coverstock but yet still go longer than a Solid Coverstock. Hybrid Coverstock are considered your happy-medium ball. They are used on a variety of conditions. One of the best selling balls in our game today, Storm Hy-Road, has a HyBrid Coverstock. Most of the time you could start with a HyBrid to feel out the pattern you are bowling on. Then steer to a better direction if the HyBrid is not working for you. Hybrid Coverstock are pretty versatile for all types of bowlers.

Solid Coverstock


Solid Coverstocks will react the earliest out of the Three Reactive Coverstocks. Solid Coverstocks are used primarily on fresh to heavy volume patterns. To put it in perspective, Solid Coverstocks have the sharpest teeth to cut through the oil. The one down fall with Solid Coverstocks, since they are designed for high oiled patterns, they absorb the most oil at the quickest rate. This requires more maintenance than your Pearl and HyBrid Coverstock. Bowers with higher speeds may lean towards Solid Coverstocks to help with reaction.
To break it down one last time for you. In order from Strongest to Weakest Coverstocks are: Solid, HyBrid, Pearl, Urethane, and then Plastic. This is not always true but more often than not, this is the order they go. When heading to go bowl tournaments, make sure your arsenal is covered from top to bottom. It is nice to have a nice mixture of each coverstock to match up to what you may be bowling on. So instead of buying the new High Performance ball each time one comes out, look at rounding out your arsenal to help improve your scores. Also, there will be times the Pearl Coverstock may out hook a Solid coverstock. Trial and error is the best thing about the game of bowling. Some things may work one day and yet fail the next day. Keep an open mind out there! Remember to always Practice Practice Practice!

Hand Positions To Help Improve Your Game

Take your game to the next level by practicing these 3 different releases

We as bowlers dictate when and how the ball reacts down the lane. I know we all wish to have that magic ball but let's face it, no ball will magically work everywhere you go. Thus, we have to make the right adjustments to allow the ball to work how we may need it to. I will break down a couple of hand positions that will benefit you on certain areas and lane patterns to help you bring your game to the next level.

The very first, and normally the easiest, to do is the "up the back" release. You will see this release used by bowlers who throw the ball straight. When done perfectly, the fingers and thumb will be rolling end over end, thumping down the lane. Elite players will use this release to help them shoot at spares. Like they always say, the easiest path to the pins is a straight path. Take the pattern out of play by rolling up the back of the ball. This helps with bowling on really tough patterns along with helping shoot at spares. The downfall is that you will have no entry angle going into the pocket, making strikes a bit harder to get consistently. Use this release on any pattern, on any given day, just don't expect to put up big numbers by using this release only.

 The next release we will hit upon is called the "off the side" release, as seen in the picture.
This release can also be referred to as the suitcase release. If you were to bend over and pick up a suitcase by the handle, you will notice everything will be off the side. The outside of your hand will be facing away from your body. By having your hand on the side of the ball, you will create a side rotation which will help cause reaction down lane. The overall ball speed will determine a roll out reaction or a late break due to the side release. This release will also help create a bigger entry angle going into the pocket, thus increasing your strike percentage. This release is not recommended for most spares due to the ball having some reaction. Use this release to help put the ball on line easier. This can be used to play straight on most all patterns.

Take your game to the next level by practicing these 3 different releases. Up the back will mainly help more with spares. Suitcase the ball to help play the track area or even further right to help give some reaction in order to strike some. Conquer the pro release and watch your average jump to 200 plus. Practice Practice, Practice will be the only way to ever get better at this game!  Bowl-A-Roll Lanes will have open bowling both during the day and throughout the evening to practice these techniques.

Understanding Bowling Ball Motion

Understanding bowling ball motion will help you make a good decision in purchasing your next bowling ball. This article is addressed to the advanced and highly skilled bowlers but has relevant information for everyone interested in the science of bowling ball motion. Understanding Bowling ball motion is simply derived by examining the overall path a bowling ball takes while traveling down the lane derived from research and development by manufacturers and amplified by field studies performed by the United State Bowling Congress (USBC).

The USBC, combined with the ball manufacturers, did graphical analysis using the Computer Aided Tracking System (CATS) to accurately measure the resulting ball motion when a drilled ball was thrown by an automatic ball throwing machine to simulate a bowler delivering a bowling ball on a lane with a 53 foot flat oil pattern. That graphical analysis showed the three phases of ball motion for each ball tested.

When a bowler delivers a ball, the bowler imparts four forces to the ball:

1. initial ball speed

2. initial rev rate

3. initial ball axis tilt

4. initial axis rotation

These factors, plus the location of the Positive Axis Point, describe a bowler’s delivery during ball motion testing. As the ball travels down the lane, it passes through three phases and two transitions. This motion happens as follows:

1. the skid phase (the first transition from skid to hook)

2. the hook phase (the second transition from hook to roll)

3. the roll phase

During the skid phase, the force from the ball speed exceeds the force from the rev rate. As the ball travels down the lane, the friction between the ball and the lane reduces the ball’s speed and increases the ball’s rev rate. When the forces from the ball speed and the rev rate become equal, the ball transitions (first transition) into the hook phase.

In the hook phase, the force from the ball’s rev rate exceeds the force from the ball’s speed. During the skid and hook phases, the ball’s axis rotation always exceeds the ball’s axis tilt. The ball will lose its’ axis rotation faster than it loses its’ axis tilt during the skid and hook phases.

When the ball’s axis rotation and axis tilt become equal, the ball will transition (second transition) into the roll phase. Once the ball enters the roll phase the ball will no longer hook and the ball’s axis rotation will always equal the ball’s axis tilt. The axis rotation and axis tilt will decrease slowly as the ball travels down the lane during the roll phase. The bowling ball will reach its’ maximum rev rate at the second transition. The ball’s rev rate will always be less in the skid and hook phases than it is in the roll phase.

The bowling ball always hits harder after it stops hooking (the roll phase), rather than while it’s still hooking (the hook phase). Once the ball reaches its’ entry angle at the second transition, the entry angle will remain the same until the ball hits the pins. This is a scientifically accurate description of bowling ball motion.

There’s one more fact that must be mentioned which affects the shape of the drilled ball’s motion, and we are only concerned with drilled bowling balls. It has been proven that all drilled bowling balls are asymmetrical, whether they are symmetrical or asymmetrical before drilling. To be considered asymmetrical, a bowling ball must have a measurable intermediate differential and a Preferred Spin Axis (PSA). And, all drilled bowling balls have both those measurable properties.

All this information was verified during the Ball Motion Study, which was conducted by the Ball Motion Task Force. The Ball Motion Task Force consisted of the USBC Equipment and Specifications Department and the ball manufacturers.

A key to ball motion is intermediate differential which is the measure of a bowling ball’s degree of asymmetry. Differential ratio is simply defined as the intermediate differential divided by the total differential. Differential ratio is expressed as a decimal valuation. The larger the differential ratio, the more asymmetrical the bowling ball. Conversely, the smaller the differential ratio, the less asymmetrical the ball.

According to the Ball Motion Study, ball motion is affected by:

1. coverstock - The study proved that the most important factor in determining ball motion is the ball’s coverstock.

2. mass properties (ball dynamics)

3. static weight balance.

Next in importance is the mass properties of the ball provided by the core density and core shape. The net effect is that the coverstock aggressiveness (chemistry plus surface texture), RG (Radius of Gyrations) and total differential have similar effects on a drilled ball’s motion. These factors affect the location of the first transition on the lane and they determine how soon a ball starts up on a given lane condition.

After choosing a given bowling ball with the given coverstock, the static weight balance dynamic shifts in accordance with the drilling layout pattern, final factor important in achieving the desired reaction. The drilling technique consists of the layout and the balance hole location and size (if a balance hole is desired).

Symmetrical balls yield drilled balls with smaller differential ratios. Small differential ratios will produce a drilled ball with a smoother, more controllable motion when compare to an undrilled asymmetrical ball.

Varying degrees of longer transitioning (longer h

ook zone) ball motion can be obtained by choosing to drill an asymmetrical ball. Asymmetrical balls after drilling show a defined, angular motion. These balls can create more area at the break point and will respond to friction faster at the break point than symmetrical balls.

We hope this scientific approach to sharing information helps you in understanding bowling ball motion. We recommend you consult your local pro shop professional when selecting a new bowling ball and a drilling layout to obtain the targeted ball motion you seek.

The Study of Bowling Ball Motion

The study of bowling ball motion are something that most bowlers know nothing about. In brief, there are three basic stages, or zones, a bowling ball must go through. These stages give the ball the proper reaction on a bowling lane. This has been the principal in bowling for the thirty years I’ve been in the game. Most bowlers don’t realize that a bowling ball goes through these stages.

The bowling ball motion are as follows:

1. Slide – A bowling ball will first slide for a certain length of a bowling lane after it is released by the bowler. This is known as the head portion of the lane.

2. Hook – After the slide zone of the ball motion it will then transition into a hook zone.

3. Roll – Following the hook zone a ball will go into a roll stage.

In summary – The stages of bowling ball motion are slide, hook, and roll.

You could Picture this like a rocket taking off from the earth to the outer space.

1. You must have a take off part so the rocket can get off the ground. = The slide.

2. After the rocket is off the ground it must transition to get out of the atmosphere. = The transition and hook.

3. Then transition again to adjust to the outer space itself. = The roll.

This is the same kind of concept involved in the study of bowling ball motion.
Which is also true in bowling lane conditioning. The bowling lane conditions and the bowling ball motion must match for the best reaction.

If a ball slides, hooks, or rolls too early you will get roll out. If roll out is too early the ball stops and goes straight. If a ball slides, hooks, or rolls too late it will never grab the lane and could skid out. A bowler should study a ball rolling down the lane and realize that these stages happen. The study of Bowling ball motion is essential.

Fall Leagues Now Forming

League bowling is one of the most popular recreational sports in the United States. If you're not a league bowler, chances are you know one, even if you don't think you do. League bowling has given many hours of joy (and frustration) to people since the inception of the sport, and continues to do so.

There are leagues available for all types of bowlers. If you're one of the best bowlers in the area, there's a league for you. If you don't care about winning at all, there's a league for you. If you and your significant other want an activity you can do together, there are couples leagues for you. On top of all the leagues bowling alleys administer, you can usually set up your own league at your own center. Bowl the way you want with the people you want.

 

For more league information please feel free to contact us at 585-427-7250 or email us at bowlarol@rochester.rr.com.

 

 https://youtu.be/uIfOZFWDlVc

 

How Bowling Balls Are Made

    How Bowling Balls Are Made

For anyone wishing to understand a little about how bowling balls are made, it is useful to focus attention on the two key components of all bowling balls, the core and the coverstock. Since the core is the first principal component of a bowling ball assembled at any given manufacturer's factory, we should first address the core component as an initial step in discussing how bowling balls are made.
It all begins with which type of ball motion a given manufacturer visualizes or plans as the next bowling ball to be introduced into the market. Over time, manufacturer's typically develop strategies to offer performance and diversification in each line of bowling balls for each brand manufactured. It is important to note than each manufacturer will use their own procedures making bowling balls. 
The core design process is the first step in planning a bowling ball to fit into the given product line. For example. if a given company wishes to introduce a very aggressive ball to combat heavy oil and fit into a certain line of bowling balls, then the first step is to design the core with an intent to achieve a pre-planned, low RG rating so the ball will "rev" quickly and respond on the front end of the lane. By means of a Computer Animated Designs (CAD's), ball designers generate special computer programs to design and develop a very stable reacting inner-core concept, known as a symmetrical core, which encourages a strong ball reaction on the front end of the lane for the heavy oil condition.
Of course, the engineers will design a less stable core if the intent is to produce a ball with a medium or high RG for use on medium or medium dry lane conditions. These types of core designs are known as an asymmetrical cores and they typically create a longer skid and greater flare potential than symmetrical cores as the bowling ball clears through the front ends before reacting in the mid-lane.
Manufacturers will design inner-cores made of urethane and polymer based products in varying density ranges, shapes, and number of pieces to also vary the mass density of the core and achieve an end result which will influence the overall ball motion predictably. Cores with the most mass density placed closest to the center of the bowling ball will tend to roll soonest and skid less than cores with the mass placed furthest from the center of the bowling ball and closer to the coverstock location. In our heavy oil example, ball core designs which includes a shape which places mass in specific areas near the center of the ball and also places mass to the top of the ball by means of an additional weight block component and by means of a special shape to the principal inner-core will promote early roll to combat front-end excessive oil coupled with a strong back-end reaction (high differential and flare potential) from the break point to the pocket.

Other core designs will produce somewhat different results in ball reaction capabilities based upon the core design principles planned by the engineers. Varying shapes, numbers of pieces in the core designs, and mass distribution in multiple core locations will enable the manufacturer to produce pre-planned ball reactions.

The cores come through the core room assembly conveyor after being molded and shaped into the size and mass density forms predetermined by CAD designs. Once the cores are finished off into their final form, they are placed into the injection molds and supported with a urethane stem, known as the pin, positioned in the weight block to hold the core in place as the coverstock is poured into the ball mold during the injection process. The pin represents the top part of the weight block and is usually identified by a colored dot on the ball surface. There are certain optional procedures which may be used to wrap an outer-core around between the inner-core and the urethane material injected into the ball mold.

It is helpful to know that the industry refers to coverstock urethane blends in the following way: plastic, urethane, reactive resin, hybrid reactive, and particle materials. Each of these coverstock material variations yields to the performance range capabilities intended for the given bowling ball. Since there are no tolerances provided for coverstock texture, the manufacturers offer a variety of textured coverstocks to match with varying oil lane conditions. Coverstock materials vary chemically and use a variety of additives merged in the mixture of basic urethane liquid compounds. These additives are used to produce a solid, pliable coverstock or a stiff, pearl coverstock, all of which will be versatile and will allow the factory finish to be altered after drilling as needed for ball reaction capabilities. Multiple dyes are used to create the desired color effect planned for the bowling ball.
Often times mixtures of urethane compounds are used to vary the molecular fiber make-up of the final mixture of material. The specific mass density of the urethane material is also calculated to ensure the overall ball weight will be achieved. Added particles may be introduced into the mixture to reinforce the material as the urethane hardens and is cured into its final state and surface appearance.
Once the injection process is completed and has cooled, the bowling ball is removed from the molds and is placed on a conveyor assembly for the purpose of honing the shape and size of the ball into acceptable tolerances by use of lathe-like devices which remove rough and bumpy materials from the ball surface. Sanding and screening procedures will then be applied to the ball surface so the ball begins to take a uniform shape within acceptable USBC tolerance ranges.

After the screening procedure is complete, the ball will be cured and polished to achieve the desired level of surface texture by means of high-speed screening devices and by use of Abralon-type pads which ultimately finish the coverstock to the intended surface texture. When the bowling ball surface is complete, then the process of spinning the ball to determine the preferred spin axis and identifying the bowling ball center of gravity are completed.


The ball will then be marked pinpointing the location of the CG and mass bias on the ball surface. The bowling ball will be stamped with the company logo and brand labels and with serial numbers indicating the ball is U.S.B.C. approved for use. The final step is placing the ball into the ball box accompanied with any given literature. The ball box is labeled with the bowling ball weight information and manufacturing information as deemed appropriate by the manufacturer.




Bowling Balls Being Made

Fall Bowling Leagues Now Forming

Fall leagues forming at Bowl-A-Roll Lanes

Bowling season is just around the corner and it is time to begin thinking about one of our Fun Filled Fall Bowling Leagues.



http://www.bowl-a-roll.com/Leagues

How To Strike

Bowling Ball Angle Of Entry




Simply stated, the angle of entry for a bowling ball traveling down the lane is the direction the ball travels when going into the 1-3 pocket from the break point for right handed bowlers and the 1-2 pocket for left handed bowlers.

The USBC (United States Bowling Congress - the governing body for the rules and regulations for the sport of bowling) has publicized that a pocket strike occurs at board 17 to 18 with an entry angle of 4 to 6 degrees.

A very strong or steep angle of entry, perhaps a 6 degree angle of entry or greater, risks reducing optimum pin carry. A weaker angle of entry also produces reduced pin carry, perhaps a 4 degree angle of entry. Equating pin carry to angle of entry is not a precise science and varies from bowler to bowler.
For the best energy transfer, a ball needs to be rolling into the pocket, not merely hooking into it.

The three phases of bowling ball motion are the skid phase in the front end, the hook phase in the mid-lane, and the roll phase on the back-end of the lane.
Between 4 and 6 degrees angle of entry will be ideal for optimum pin carry on a given night, on a given lane condition. A 5 degree angle of entry might just be the perfect angle of entry on most house conditions to gain optimum pin carry.

How does this equate to your delivery technique?
“Power players” who hook the ball the most because of their strong rev-rate and relatively high axis tilt will achieve about a 6 degree angle of entry into the pocket and will likely produce very good pin carry but run the risk of leaving frequent back row pins on solid pocket hits such as the 7 and 10 pins or 8 and 9 pins.

“Tweener players” achieve about a 5 degree angle of entry and the pin carry is certainly very good with the nearest to optimum levels of carry as any angle of entry yields.

“Stroker players” will achieve about a 4 degree angle of entry and will also get good pin carry but perhaps not the maximum carry potential as a player with a higher rev-rate and a greater measure of axis tilt.

With 4 to 5 degree entry angles you generally only worry about corner pins or a 4 pin (6 pin for left handed bowlers) if the ball contacts the pocket a little high.
Angles of entry at 6 degrees or higher run a risk of leaving any of the back row pins as well as the occasional big split. These leaves occur more frequently with big hook angles of entry as opposed to the more modest angles of entry.

In the final examination of angle of entry, the lane conditions coupled with the bowler’s delivery technique are going to determine what the best entry angle is at any moment.
You can slightly alter your entry angle by altering your delivery technique but not so much as to lose accuracy. Increasing axis tilt and rev-rate might help you achieve a bit more entry angle and pin carry correspondingly but that is something to be determined by you and/or your coach.

Altering the drilling layout and changing ball coverstock surface textures will also influence entry angle slightly. However, the chief concern here is making sure you get the most consistent ball reaction and hit the pocket at the highest degree of efficiency as possible. You shouldn't only be concerned with pin carry.