The 10 pin in bowling - why we leave the 10 pin in bowling
First there are 2 different types of 10 pins. One is the flat or weak 10 pin the other is the wrap or ringing 10 pin.
1. The Flat 10 Pin - The first type of 10 pin in bowling is the flat or weak 10 pin. This is when the bowling ball rolls weak into the pocket and is due to a loss of energy. There are two reasons why this happens. Either the ball has never gone into a roll, or the ball has rolled too early and lost all of its energy before it gets to the pocket. So you must recognize two things. One being which type of 10 pin you are leaving. The other is whether the bowling ball is rolling too early or not rolling early enough. To determine whether you are leaving the flat 10 or the weak 10, look at the 6 pin. If the 6 pin is lying in the gutter, it indicates a weak or flat 10 pin. If you are leaving a flat 10, you need more angle or a ball that breaks later and sharper. You can do this with a change in the ball surface, handposition, type of ball, ball drilling layout, or a change in ball speed. If the bowling ball is rolling too early, you need to roll it harder. If it is skidding or not going into its roll, you may need less ball speed.
2.The Wrap 10 Pin - The second type of 10 pin in bowling is the wrap 10, or ringing 10 pin. This occurs because the ball rolls into the pocket with too much angle or too much speed. The bowling ball does not have enough end-over-end roll. If the 6 pin goes around the 10 pin quickly, then you are leaving a wrap 10. A reason for this may be you are rolling the ball too hard. If you are leaving the wrap 10, you normally need earlier roll or more end-over-end roll. You can do this with a change in ball surface, hand position, reducing your ball speed, type of ball or ball drilling layout.
A Basic Rule of Thumb.
1. If the 6 pin is lying flat in the gutter, it is a flat 10 pin. 2. If the 6 pin flies around the 10 pin, it is a wrap or ringing 10 pin.
Let the 6 pin be your guide in recognizing your adjustment. Note: Learn to recognize the type of 10 you are leaving, then learning how to adjust. This is the key to increasing pin carry and a higher scoring potential..
Bowling equipment has changed the game drastically in recent decades, and while some effects are obvious, others are much more understated. Upgraded balls and new kinds of technology have allowed us to better understand what happens throughout the course of a bowling shot, as well as what happens in between shots.
We have always known that lane oil dries up and wears away throughout the course of a game, and that an evolving pattern affects shot selection, equipment choice and sometimes even mentality. However, only recently have we been able to easily show exactly what’s happening to your shot when you don’t adjust to changing bowling lane oil conditions. In this lesson, we go over some of the core concepts of using lane oil to your advantage and discuss what you should do throughout a game and tournament when a lane is in transition.
How Bowling lane oil transition dictates your choices
One of the biggest pitfalls bowlers face is not adjusting their play to changing bowling lane oil conditions. No matter how consistent your stroke is or how much power you generate in your swing, it’s not going to matter unless you work with the lane oil. So to help you figure out how to read oil patterns on bowling lanes so you can adapt to the transition, we teach you about the key concepts of lane oil changes, and talk about what to look for throughout the course of a game or multiple games.
As soon as you throw your first shot of a game the lane oil pattern begins to transition, which means you must judge bowling lane conditions and react accordingly. With each subsequent shot, the way you attack the pocket should be a little bit different, whether it’s a simple change in your approach or a switch to a new type of ball. Tune in to this segment to learn more about bowling lane oil conditions and see what else determines the way you go about your game.